•   Super 35 axle set with Detroit locker or Ox Locker
•   Warn full floating axle set.

In checking on the Super 35 set, it seems that the Ox Locker is seriously back-logged, or maybe even pulled from the market.  Since it uses a non-stock spline you must change to a locker, and the only other choice was a Detroit. With the short wheelbase and 33" tires the Power Trax locker that's in there now has been a pain on both the road and trail, so it would be ideal to upgrade to an ARB or maybe the Eaton electric someday.  That left the Warn Full Floating kit as the only way to go. 

The install was Easy, Easy, Easy.  Since the Dana 35 on the mutt was a non-C-clip type, the rear cover didn't even have to come off!    Note that the photo from Warn above is for the early style bolt pattern, the newer 5 on 4.5 is slightly different as shown in the photos below.

Follow along with the photos of the install.  Click on any image to enlarge.  (please pardon the focus in the first three photos. I was trying a new camera from work, and had some RTFM operator error.)  Be sure to follow the instructions supplied with the kit as yours might be different, and they will provide some extra needed details. 

Remove Old Axle

First job is to remove the old axle.  Jack the rear axle up and secure the vehicle safely.  Remove the wheels and brake drums, and remove the bearing retainer plate by putting a socket through the access holes in the flange. Since the oil level is probably below the level of the axle tube, you probably don't even have to drain if you have the non-c clip axle.

Next step is to remove the backing plate.  Instructions call for removing the brake lines, but I just carefully pulled and positioned the backing plate out of the way.  With the backing plate off, remove the old bearing race and oil seal.

Attach New Stub Axle

You have to drill a fifth mounting hole in the axle tube flange.  Mount up the new axle stub as a guide and drill it out.  There was already a hole there but it didn't line up.  Why they didn't just make their hole match, I have no idea.  You will have to drill a matching hole in the brake backing plate too.

Here it is with the new stub axle all mounted up.  Note that the brake backing plate is on the OUTSIDE of the assembly, with the stub axle flange behind.

Attach New Hub

The new hubs have the bearing races already installed.  You just need to grease up the new bearings and install, and install the grease seal.  Be careful because the inner and outer bearings are different numbers, but look almost identical.  Here the hub has been assembled and slipped over the axle stub, and the retaining nut is started. 

Tighten lock nut to specified torque of 50 lbs, and then back off 90 degrees.  Hub should turn freely, with no play.  Locking tab is slipped over.  If it doesn't match, flip it over and see if it works. 

Here's the wrench required.  Should be same as a D-44 wrench.  In any case, I called my local Parts Plus guy and asked for the Dana 44 tool and it was correct.  Attach the outer locking nut and torque to specified torque of appx. 150 lbs.

Modify Brake Drums

Biggest pain of the whole job is opening up the rear brake drum.  If I'd read the instructions a couple of days ahead of time I would have just picked up new drums and had them machined and ready.  I decided to do it anyway and open them up by hand.  With a sabre saw and some careful grinding it seems to have worked.  Note that it must be opened so there is barely metal left at the wheel stud holes.  I figured that if I got it opened up and didn't cut through, that it must be close to being centered.  A test drive at the end didn't show any sign of an out of round drum, so it must have worked.  I'm having a new set turned to install later just to be sure.

Here it is with the brake drum and axle installed.  Note in the next photo how the drum is sandwiched between the flange and the outer hub.  This is the one part of the design that I don't care for.  Whenever you remove a wheel, the hub is loosened so that dirt can get in. I'm going to get spare bearings and seals to carry, just in case!

Also, note that the left and right axle shafts are 2 different lengths.  Yup, I installed the wrong one and lost about 15 minutes trying to figure out why it didn't engage the hub.  Guess that Warn figured it was so obvious that they didn't have to mention it in the instructions. 

Install Hub and Wheel

Here it is with the outer hub installed.  If you use the stock 5 on 4.5 center pattern it comes only with the locking hubs.  If you use the older Jeep pattern you have a choice of the locking up, or a (probably) stronger non-unlocking assembly.

Here is is, wheel mounted back on.  If you use the stock Jeep wheels you will probably have to have them opened up too. 

That's about it.  Be sure to follow the Warn instructions to get all of the details. First side took about 2 hours, with a few phone interruptions and some time chatting with neighbors.  Second side took less than an hour, without rushing.  Not counting cutting out the brake drums.

Note that because the wheel is now mounted with the hub flange behind it, it will be spaced out about 3/8".  Outside of that and the locking hub sticking out, it drives and looks like stock.  One GREAT advantage is that if you flat tow your Jeep, just unlock the rear hubs (and front ones if they're locking) and the driveline is safe!

JL